Caring For Grasses
CARING FOR CENTIPEDE GRASS
GARCIA PINESTRAW & LAWN CARE 334-790-3380
Caring for centipede grass? Garcia Pinestraw & Lawn Care of Dothan has you covered. We know how to mow your turf, trim and edge it to perfection.
MOWING
Caring for centipede grass? Mow centipede grass from 1.5-2 inches. Its slow-growing pattern means this grass will require less time behind the mower than other, faster-growing grasses like bermuda or St. Augustine.
WATER
Unlike grasses with deep root systems, centipede grass has naturally shallow roots. For this reason, it is critical not to water this turf frequently. The maxim, “deep but infrequent watering” is especially important for this grass. Only water when the turf shows signs of stress (changes color, wilts) and is completely dry. Then, irrigate deeply so the water reaches 6 inches into the soil profile. This forces the roots to reach a little deeper in search of water and strengthens it against dry conditions.
FERTILIZATION
Centipedegrass is called the “lazy man’s grass” for a reason. One reason is that it requires little fertilizer. Plan to apply 0.5-2 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year. Overfertilizing this grass will harm the grass and can invite disease, decrease cold tolerance, and increase the thatch layer. Less is more with this grass.
DETHATCHING AND AERATION
Centipede grass will develop excess thatch if it has too much nitrogen fertilizer. The stolons also contain a naturally high level of lignin, which doesn’t decompose well and can contribute to this thatch layer. Rent a dethatching machine once thatch levels reach ½ inch.
While dethatching is specifically designed to reduce thatch, core aeration will remove some thatch as well as it removes plugs from the lawn. In addition, if you’re concerned about heavier-than-ideal soil for this grass, aeration is designed to reduce some of this heaviness and compaction in the soil, allowing more air and water to the roots for a healthier lawn.
DISEASE, INSECTS, AND WEEDS
Disease: If you’re around centipede grass for any length of time, you may hear about centipede grass decline. This disease is caused by one or more of the following: mowing too short, overfertilizing (nitrogen and phosphorus), alkaline soil, or an unhealthy root system.
Iron chlorosis is another issue. This yellowing of the grass may be a deficiency in iron or manganese caused by alkaline soils, too much phosphorus, or soil temps that haven’t warmed up to match air temps yet (common in early spring).
Iron chlorosis can be remedied by a foliar application of iron but usually self-corrects as temps warm into late spring. If the yellow leaves persist, this may be a sign of centipede grass decline, and you’ll need to correct imbalances to revive the lawn.
Insects: Nematodes (ring nematodes in particular) and ground pearl insects (also called the scale insect) are centipede’s main nemeses. Grubs, mole crickets, sod webworms, lawn caterpillars, and spittlebugs are others that can cause problems.
Weeds: If you’re used to spraying weeds with weed killer, read the label before you spray. Centipede grass won’t tolerate some post-emergent herbicides, including 2,4-D. Sethoxydim will work to kill existing grassy weeds, and products that contain atrazine are suitable for post-emergent control for small grassy and small broadleaf weeds. Hand-pulling and non-chemical sprays are also an option for chem-free weed control. And remember, the best defense against weeds is a full, healthy lawn.
Some information taken from Fundamentals of Turfgrass Management, 5th ed. by Christians, Patton, and Law
If you think a centipede grass lawn may be right up your alley, contact us. They can help you select, install, and care for your grass so you can spend your free time doing what matters most.